Above: Last day on the O-Circuit: on my way down from Torres Del Paine through Windy Pass. *No joke!*
Earlier this year, I went on a 3 week, solo backpacking trip to South America (Patagonia, Chile). This is a snapshot of that trip.
Primary Objective:
Go to Patagonia, Chile and hike the 70+ mile O-Circuit in Torres Del Paine (Paine Towers) with 1 carry-on and no luggage.
Flight Plan:
Outbound: Seattle > Houston > Miami > Santiago, CL > Puerto Natales, CL
Inbound: Puerto Natales, CL > Santiago, CL > JFK > Seattle
Estimated Expense:
Air travel: $1500.00
Vertice Travel (logistics company): $1800.00
Food: $750.00
Accommodations (hostels): $500.00
Santiago/Valparaiso, Chile:
Like Portland, OR, Santiago was 1.5hr from the (pacific) coast and 1.5hr from a mountain range (Andes).
Puerto Natales, Chile:
A 3 hour flight south of Santiago is Puerto Natales, basecamp for anyone looking to venture into Torres Del Paine. It is also a junction for anyone coming from Punta Arenas or El Calafate, AR.
1st Half/Back Half (Seron to Grey):
Entrance to Torres Del Paine is an 1.5hr bus ride from Puerto Natales where most hikers and backpackers for both the "O" and "W" trek (Las Torres) start/end. It was a little disorientating trying to figure out the permits, buses and finding the right trail to start, which is why I was glad to have gone through Vertice Travel where they handled all the logistics, camping accommodations and food (breakfast, lunch and dinner) for the entire trek.
Above: On top of Paso
Above: Coming down Paso
2nd Half/Front Half (Grey to Torres Central):
With 4 nights under my belt and the tough part (Paso) done, the rest was relatively straightforward with more tourists since it is the "W" trek. The first half was certainly more secluded where I would go almost the entire day hiking by myself. The front half is more accessible to more visitors from both Paine Grande (by ferry) or Las Torres for those doing day trips. I will say running down from Mirador Las Torres is and will be on the most epic decent of my life. A 3000-4000ft decent and double wide gravel tracks, passing all the hikers going up. It's as close to flying and type 1 fun as I can get.
What I will remember most?
The people. As exotic as the natural beauty was in this part of the world, it wouldn't have been the same if I didn't get to share it with those I met on the trip. Karena and Sophia (Buenas Aires, AR), Tito (Santiago, CL) , Carlos (UK), Tina (Switzerland), Lucy (UK), the family from Washington DC who I had a 30 minute heated discussion on the definition type 1, 2, 3 fun and so many other fellow travelers I met along the way that significantly enhanced my experience. It's a reminder that traveling solo allows us to become more vulnerable and dependent on others (whether it's asking for directions or a basic translation), which offers us to have more interactions with strangers that we wouldn't have otherwise had. Obviously, there are inherent risks to traveling alone as well and one must be always be aware of their surroundings.
What I learned?
Most travelers I met on this trip are not just going to Torres Del Paine, they are also going to Fitz Roy (Argentina), Ushuaia (en route Antarctica), Easter Island, basically the rest of South America. With my 3 week timeframe, I was restricted to more or less one major destination. On one hand, I wish I had more time to continue exploring the continent as I was finally getting comfortable with learning "Spanish" on the fly. But if I were to do that, I would have had to change the entire pace of my trip. I would've also had to do much more upfront planning and budgeting (which I didn't for this go around). As much as I aspire to do back to back multi-day treks, traveling is still traveling. The ever changing scenery, people, and environment starts to take a toll physically and mentally (figuring what/where to eat and stay). By the end of the trek, my body essentially shut down from the varying climates, interactions and constant "nomading" around. I came down with a moderate cold like symptoms that lasted for a couple weeks. It is important to know your traveling style, if possible, intentionally schedule "down days" on the trip where you only veg out; no sightseeing allowed. It is easy, especially for Americans with our limited time off, compared to Australia and Western Europe, to feel pressured to do and see all the things that it becomes less of a vacation and more of a never ending and stressful, self-inflicting to-do list.
Where to next?
More circuits. Perhaps Annapurna or Manaslu in the Himalayas. Gravel riding and marathon training in Kenya; learn Swahili. Or venture up north and explore the Canadian Rockies. Banff *cough cough...*
No matter the destination or duration I want to 1) become more immersed with the culture (language, food, art, history, geology etc...), 2) travel slower, staying at each place longer with the intent of making deeper connections, becoming more than just a tourist/contributing economically and 3) be more mindful and acknowledge the carbon footprint my adventure has on the planet and how I can tread lighter and more efficiently.
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